Ghana Journey: CHURCH OF JUSTICE

Saturday 8 June 2013

One begins to run out superlatives when every day is filled with superlative moments, but that truly describes this continuing adventure in Ghana. That said, the morning began with the distressing news that two of our companions had taken ill overnight. They felt it was best to spend the day at the hotel and close to the facilities.

Our first stop was at a center that supports people who live with HIV/AIDS. This is not a hospital or hospice ministry but a place where adults, teens and children can come to spend the day and feel safe and supported. One of the biggest problems in Ghana (and probably most of Africa) is the misinformation that surrounds HIV/AIDS. 

Forget the way the condition is judgmentally regarded in the United States (the gay disease, the promiscuous disease, etc.) In Ghana, people who live with HIV/AIDS are branded with a stigma that essentially cuts them off from society. Families are known to throw sons or daughters out into the streets if they are found to test positive with HIV/AIDS. Because the virus can often be passed on to children of an HIV/AIDS mother, or through blood transfusion, even young children are ostracized, through no fault of their own. HIV/AIDS carries a stigma in Africa that reminds me of the way lepers were regarded at the time of Jesus.

SHARPER is the name of the center: Strengthening HIV/AIDS Response Partnership and Evidence-based Research.  It is a welcoming place where people of all faiths -- Christian, Muslim, or indigenous beliefs -- can feel loved and supported for basic needs. From the program brochure:

- "Through support groups, CRS reaches a large number of people living with HIV who are unable to access health care. To improve the quality of life of these individuals, a cadre of trained volunteers provides home-based care, strengthens health referral systems, runs programs to reduce stigma and self-stigma, and actively searches for new AIDS cases and defaulters to ensure they receive proper care."

SHARPER is also simply a place to socialize during the day, to meet others with HIV/AIDS, and to love and be loved back.

We met and interacted with 80 or so of the people of SHARPER. After introductions and prayer, they told us their stories. I was frankly overwhelmed by their honesty and the sad circumstances of being cut off from their families. And yet, as the project coordinator pointed out, they are a happy people and proved it by singing and dancing for us. We returned the favor and sang a few uplifting songs to celebrate our solidarity together.

Our next activity was to visit the Zaare Amisuure Basket Weavers Group, a craft center that empowers women artisans to create beautiful hand woven baskets, hats and fans in a safe working environment. Their products are sold internationally as part of the growing Fair Trade movement, described in a CRS brochure:

- "Fair Trade is based on the principle that people should earn a fair profit for the items they produce. Fair Trade guarantees fair wages to disadvantaged artisans, farmers and workers. It provides access to the technical and financial assistance that poor people so desperately need and so rarely get in the conventional trading system. Most importantly, Fair Trade connects these producers with people like you who understand that the choices we make every day as consumers have the power to make the trading system work better for our brothers and sisters overseas."

As we have consistently encountered in every place we have visited here in Ghana, the 25 women artisans greeted us with rousing song and lively dance. The rhythm of their song reminded me of a reggae beat and we couldn't help but to join them in their dance. I'm not a dancer at all but when I was "called" by one of our hosts to a spotlight dance moment, I could not refuse. There was no way I could replicate their energetic gyrations, so I fell back on a couple of dance moves I knew: ska skanking and 70s disco. LOL.

The women then went on to demonstrate their craft, sitting as a group on the workshop floor to do their intricate work. It was very moving to witness their expertise in basket weaving, where each strand of straw is is woven and woven and woven painstakingly and with obvious love and pride. This was definitely quality work!

Afterward, our group made purchases from the store. Ben, Val, Martha and Alsy bought several baskets to take home with them. My suitcase space is limited but I purchased a lovely hand fan as a gift for my mother.

In the evening, we sang at a concert fund-raiser at Sacred Heart Cathedral in Bolgatanga. The concert was a benefit for the SHARPER program that we visited in the morning, and seven outstanding parish choirs from around the region participated. The joy of the African Church filled that sacred space for almost three hours! Each choir sang on their way from the pews to the sanctuary, sang two songs, then sang on their way back to their seats. 

Congas and drums beat out their constant rhythms from the choir area and in the pews. The beat was non-stop, and drummers played lightly when the emcee introduced each choir. Even the collection was accompanied by singing and drumming as the audience formed conga lines on their way to place donations into the money boxes at the sanctuary.

With all this exciting local music, our group wondered how we would fit into the program. After all, we were just four singers and three guitars with no percussion. But our Ghanian friends received us enthusiastically was we sang "Open the Eyes of My Heart," "We Are His People" (by Greg), and "Walk Together Children" (by ValLimar). Ben and Sarah did a stunning and simple rendition of her song "In the Silence" that had the audience mesmerized. We even sang my song, "Grant Us Peace" as a sign of solidarity with friends throughout the world.

Remember that song we composed together a few days ago? It made its debut  at this concert! The audience listened attentively as we sang of the marvelous hospitality that has so touched our group.

SEEDS OF JUSTICE

Refrain:

People of justice, people of mercy,

People of welcome, open wide;

Seeds of service in our needing,

Love of strangers, love divine.

Verse 1:

Our hearts are lavished by your kindness;

The table set before our eyes;

Our lives united in communion,

That's where our real self dwells.

Verse 2:

Faith guides our journey through the darkness.

Hope paves the way to set us free.

Love makes us friends, no longer strangers.

That's where our real self dwells.

Bridge:

Sow the seeds: our lives, the gifts we're giving.

Sow the seeds: our love, in thought and deed.

Sow the seeds: in giving and receiving.

That's where the living God dwells.

© 2013 by Ben Walther, Sarah Kroger, Greg Walton, Ted Miles, ValLimar Jansen, and Ken Canedo  

= = = 

Note: Robert was sick on this day and he had to remain back at the hotel. After we returned home, he helped us fine-tune these lyrics to the version that we sang on the AKWAABA album. 

CHURCH OF JUSTICE 

Refrain: 

Church of justice, Church of mercy, 

Church of welcome, open wide. 

Church of service with the lowly; 

love of stranger, love divine. 

Verse 1: 

You breathed your Word and created. 

You speak and now all things sustain. 

As rain and snow pour down with purpose, 

your promised justice, God fulfill. 

Verse 2: 

Our lives united in Communion; 

your table set before our eyes. 

Our hearts are lavished with your kindness. 

Your promised banquet, God fulfill. 

Bridge: 

Send us forth! Our lives, the gift we're giving. 

Send us forth! Our love in thought and deed. 

Send us forth! In giving and receiving: 

Your promised kingdom, God fulfill. 

Text and music © 2013, 2016, Ken Canedo, Robert Feduccia, ValLimar Jansen, Fiat Music, LLC, Ted Miles, Ben Walther and Greg Walton. Published by Spirit & Song, a division of OCP. All rights reserved. 

Ghana Journey: WATER OF LIFE

Friday 7 June 2013

Early wake-up this morning to give us enough time to drive to Yinduri  for the community's celebration of their new water pump. Mohamed, a CRS staffer, explained to me that the region is made up primarily of farmers who are at the mercy of extreme weather that vacillates between droughts and floods. Until CRS helped them build a water pump last year, the village water supply was a contaminated source of disease. Thanks to the new pump, the villagers have a regular central source of clean water. They can now hike to the pump, fill their containers, and bring fresh water to their homes.

Like yesterday, we were welcomed warmly by dancers and singers and smiling children. The village chief expressed his gratitude as the community organizer thanked us Americans for the generosity of our youth. Turns out that LIFETEEN ministries raised $200,000 to help build the pump here. Two of my fellow musicians, Sarah and Ben, are involved in LIFETEEN at their parishes and expressed to villagers how thrilled they were to participate in this vital project. We sang our songs after their music presentation, including a rousing version of "We Are Marching" led by ValLimar. Afterward, the villagers gifted us with straw hats  to protect us from the African sun. Good old Greg was honored by the village as our team "elder" and invested with the appropriate headdress and responsibilities. (All hail, Greg!)

The day ended with an outdoor sunset Mass at the beautiful Marian Grotto in Kongo with Monsignor Roger Aboteyuure, followed by a cordial happy hour and dinner at his residence. Monsignor is a diocesan official and his gated house is deep in the woods, a sprawling compound filled with Catholic statuary and shrines. Dinner was traditional Ghana cuisine. I can't remember the names of the dishes, but it looked like creamed spinach, rice jollof and some kind of sweet white paste with a sticky constituency. There was also barbecued chicken and a meat pasta dish for the carnivores.

Some of us had the honor of sitting with Monsignor Roger and he was quite a conversationalist. His views on the ministry of the Church in Ghana reflect the challenges of pastoral ministry in Africa. 

"The Church is very positive, powerful and progressive," Monsignor said. "The Church really does make a difference."

Monsignor went on to explain that the Catholic Church is the second largest provider of health care services in Ghana with 30 percent of the health facilities. The US Church focuses so much on sexual morality. In Ghana, the focus is on poverty, death and isolation.  "When confronted with 'my child is hungry', he needs food.  If my child is dying, she needs a clinic."

How does Monsignor hold on to hope? "We have to learn to turn to the Lord, knowing that we can only do so much."

When does Monsignor want us to tell the people in the USA? "All we want is to be loved. Solidarity is not a written check, but the willingness to know us."

It was a wonderful evening. Monsignor Roger was a gracious host who went out of his way to make us feel welcome.

We then checked into our fourth hotel in four days: the Ex-Tee Crystal, a modern and nicely appointed hotel with flush toilets (yay!). It was a long and fulfilling day, and I look forward to sleeping in as scheduled. Tomorrow we visit the CRS AIDS/HIV center.

Ghana Journey: THE PERFECT DAY

Thursday 6 June 2013

This will surely fill me with joy every time I think back on it. Very rarely can one claim to have a perfect day. Today was mine. 

It started out with our group checking out of the Modern City Hotel in Tamale. After a quick visit to the local CRS headquarters (thank you, Thomas, for letting us access the Internet in your office!), we hit the road for East Mamprusi, a tribal village in one of the poorest rural areas in all of Ghana. The 90-minute van ride was on one of the most bumpy and treacherous roads I have ever travelled. There was one lane on each side, which meant a lot of passing of slow vehicles, trucks and motor scooters. Unlike the USA, horns are used excessively in this country, and drivers are expected to honk loudly and often to warn pedestrians and bicyclists -- and goats -- to get out of the way. 

It didn't help that much of the road was unpaved, with many deep puddles and potholes. We passengers were bumping and shaking; Greg said I looked like I was back in my punk rock days because of my head banging. At any moment, a parade of livestock would cross the road, causing brakes to suddenly screech. Did I mention that we didn't have seat belts?

But we made it to the village, with a first stop in the CRS branch that specializes in helping mothers give birth in the safest possible way, with important follow-up in the crucial first years of life. The program is called EPPICS: Encouraging Positive Practice for Improving Child Survival. Because of their good work, stillbirth and birth defects have gone down dramatically. 

We next went to the village itself, where we were greeted by a large group of colorfully dressed men and women who sang and danced the traditional Ghanaian welcome song. They followed that with hugs and handshakes. Our entourage was very touched. Some of the dancers then gave us a brief presentation (translated by an interpreter) of how they were successfully helping their village to turn around then infant mortality rate. It then hit me why EPPICS was so successful. CRS isn't just doing things to help the people. They are EMPOWERING the people to help themselves and have a personal stake in their own well-being.

We were then met by dozens of smiling children who escorted us to the Hut of Elders. The village chief, a noble old soul dressed in a dark tunic and distinctive cap, welcomed us warmly as the local assemblyman spoke with pride of how his village is one of the healthiest in the region, thanks to CRS. Lastly, the children escorted us to the village square. It reminded me of the final happy scene in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. We were seated on chairs at a place of honor across from an imposing Shea Nut tree, with large branches that safely held many children who had climbed to get a better vantage point of the festivities. Then the singing and dancing began in earnest.

For about two hours, we were the toast of the village. A women's group sang and danced, followed by a men's drumming and chanting group, who accompanied the elders to their place of honor across from us. In the next dance, our team was pulled up to join our hosts on the dance floor, and we gyrated in their rhythmic circle dance. That was followed by a drama by tribal actors in which they demonstrated safe birthing processes learned from EPPICS. 

The community greatly appreciated the efforts of their actors, laughing heartily at all the funny bits and applauding warmly. Then it was our turn. Greg, Ben and I broke out our guitars as ValLimar sang "Wade On the Water" with Sarah and Robert. We also sang "Lean On Me," American youth ministry style, with all the gestures and puns.  I don't know if the villagers understood the English word play -- "For! Five!" "Long! Short!" -- but the kids really got into it, participating and shouting with glee.

Lastly, we exchanged gifts. On our behalf, ValLimar presented First Aid kits that included bandages, ice packs, salt solutions (for dehydration) and Permethrin, a safe household insecticide that mothers would appreciate. 

The villagers gave us a goat. I kid you not! It was led to us with a rope, a friendly little critter who baa-ed gently. My friends and I were surprised and graciously accepted our gift. We named the goat "Jawani" -- the name of the village -- and will donate him to a local school. I hope to write a children's book for CRS that will tell the story of our amazing journey: "JAWANI: The Goat from Ghana."

The people of Mamprusi village extended to us a gracious welcome that touched our hearts deeply. Their hospitality, their easy smiles, their enthusiasm, their music, their dancing and, most especially, their obvious love for their children and for each other was contagious and inspiring. I shall treasure that amazing afternoon forever. 

Later that night, in the hostel, a group of us were sitting around in the living room: ValLimar, Sarah, Ted, Greg, Ben and me. Ted was on his laptop, uploading photos from his camera. Ben was strumming his guitar softly as we pleasantly reminisced about our shared experience that afternoon. I had suggested earlier that we all start thinking of favorite scripture passages that helped us reflect on our amazing experiences. Val pulled out her Bible and, before we knew it, we were deeply entrenched in writing a new song to celebrate the marvelous hospitality of the people of Ghana. Ted watched us songwriters go about our work and he reveled in this rare glimpse of the Holy Spirit at work in creative people. 

After two hours, we had our song: "Seeds of Justice." I will write more about this song in a later blog. For now, I just want to say that writing a new song with my dear friends was a perfect end to a perfect day. God is good!

Ghana Journey: ON THE WAY TO TAMALE

Wednesday 5 June 2013

Today we flew up to Tamale (pronounced TAH-mah-lay) in the Northern region of Ghana. It is a more rural area than Accra, the capital city where we stayed last night. 

But I jump ahead of myself. First, we had to drive through downtown Accra to the airport, and that meant maneuvering through a colorful swarm of street vendors who did not hesitate to aggressively sell their wares from car to car. 

Mangoes, bananas, pastries, breads,  bottled water, boxed fruit juice, tabloid newspapers, classroom relief maps of Ghana, candy bars, illegal movie DVDs, watches, flags -- you name it, they sold it, sometimes with a smile and always in-your-face. Downtown traffic was backed up bumper-to-bumper, and the vendors risked life and limb as they pushed their goods directly to drivers and passengers alike.

What made this mobile salesforce even more remarkable were the impressive number of women who deftly balanced large trays or bowls of fruit or pastries or bottled water on their heads with the confidence and poise of an Olympics ice skater. If a driver signaled for service, the lady vendor calmly reached over her head, pulled out a product, handed it to the customer, then pocketed the cash into a pouch. Did I mention that she was wearing a colorful long gown? It was really something to behold!

After a one-hour flight to Tamale, we were greeted warmly by the family of our host, Thomas Awiapo. Such a lovely family, with four friendly children between ages 4 and 18. They laid out for us an incredible spread for dinner, with lots of meatless options for the three vegetarians in our delegation. Before dinner we pulled out our guitars and entertained our hosts,  who joyfully sang and danced with us.

The only down side today was the hotel, a comedown from yesterday's plush downtown establishment. Called the Modern City Hotel, this joint was anything but. For example, in order to flush the toilet, I have to fill a plastic bucket in the tub then pour it quickly into the bowl! 

Tomorrow on June 6, we're taking a bus to East Mamprusi, a tribal village with rustic conditions. 

More later. BTW, I'm sleeping with a mosquito net tonight!

Ghana Journey: ARRIVING IN ACCRA

Tuesday 4 June 2013

Accra airport is interesting, with a rather complicated customs/check-in procedure. We had a hotel van waiting for us at the curb but were immediately accosted by unsolicited "helpers" who offered to load our luggage onto the van for tips. We were warned about them. Sometimes, these helpers even steal bags in the midst of the deliberate confusion. 

Our host, Thomas Aguiapo, is gracious, engaging, and so attentive to our needs. He welcomed us with a big smile and open arms. Thomas is regional director of CRS in Tamale.

We checked in at the Mensvic, a fine hotel. Somewhat plush (American-style flush toilets, Olympic-sized pool) but also charmingly rustic: no carpeting, African colors throughout. Restaurant was top notch. I had a Vegetable Rice Jollof, a Ghanian favorite. Mildly spicy and delicious. 

Tomorrow we sleep in (really not much sleep last night on the plane). After later breakfast, we take a prop plane to CRS headquarters in Tamale (TAH-mah-lay, not the Mexican pronunciation). Plane trip should be interesting, like something out of Indiana Jones. Will take lots of photos. Hopefully, we'll have Internet up there. 

We've been warned about the water (our American digestive systems are unaccustomed to it) and advised to brush teeth with bottled water that was given to each of us. More to come!

Ghana Journey: LONDON

Tuesday 4 June 2013

Note:  I will post my Ghana blogs as Internet access allows. Photos will be posted after I return home.

It is a strange sensation. We left Baltimore on British Airways at 10:00pm EDT. About an hour into the flight they served us dinner! I had the tasty vegetarian pasta selection. Then, as passengers around me snoozed, I settled in to read a book on my iPad, a novel I had been reading on-and-off for several months. Now I was near the end and I couldn't put it down. It must have been 1:30am EDT by the time I finally dozed off. But we had already flown east enough to enter the daylight. 

I'm pretty sure I only had a couple of hours of uncomfortable sleep. The cabin lights went on around 9:00am London time, and coffee was served. My Zen "in the zone" travel philosophy* is going to be severely tested.

Robert wants to do an Abbey Road run: zoom to the famous Beatles recording studio in London, have our photo taken while crossing the iconic zebra crosswalk, then rush back to Heathrow. That's tempting but we have less than four hours to accomplish that. I'm sure all kinds of customs procedures are involved, and I don't want to risk missing our connecting flight to Accra. When I was younger, so much younger than today, I might have thrown all caution to the wind, but not today. Robert eventually agreed. Next time, bro!

Looking out the plane window at the outer London countryside, I was immediately struck by the highways, on which cars were going forward on the left side of the road. British-style, of course. Heathrow Airport was filled with the sound of that marvelous British accent that I love so much, thanks to the Beatles and the family of my friend Phill Signey, who hails from the UK. 

"Have I heard your voice before?" the airport inspector asked me as he screened me through security, his tone so obviously London. He was responding to my "Blast, I forgot to take off my belt!" that I threw out unconsciously with a slight Liverpuddlian lilt that I picked up from too many viewings of "A Hard Day's Night."

"Perhaps you have, mate," I replied to the inspector's question. I had to laugh because he was East Indian and I'm Filipino!

(I say! That lady looks familiar. Could it be? Nah! Or is she?)

Heathrow is a wonder, quite possibly the most cavernous airport in the world. British signage abounds: "Lift" instead of "Elevator." "Toilets" instead of "Restrooms." The snack shop had some curiosities: Kipper sandwiches and Smoked Salmon on rye, no mayo, with only lemon juice.

Found out British electrical outlets are three-pronged. I need an adaptor to plug my iPhone into the recharger.

Robert, Greg and I sat at the coffee shop table, shooting the bull about the merits of the 1980s music scene: Duran Duran, the Cars, Michael Jackson, Mister Mister, U2. . . We ended up appreciating the 80s more than we expected. (Surprise!)

All too soon, it was time to board our connection to Accra. I simply must spend more time in London someday.

Flying due south from London to Accra, we're zooming past places I have only seen in books and movies: the English Channel; Paris; Madrid; the Mediterranean Sea. As we entered African airspace I was filled with a sense of mystery and adventure. These geographic names are largely unknown to me: Abuja; Lagos; the Niger River; Kano; Pakar; Tamale; Accra.

At this stage in my life it is rare for me to experience something truly new and unknown. I am open to whatever lies ahead, and I resolve to ground myself in deep prayer daily so I can reflect the serenity of the Holy Spirit.

I forgot to bring a rosary. I will ask our host Thomas if he has one that I can borrow.

*My personal travel philosophy: I don't believe in jet lag. No matter where I travel, I force myself to be IN THE ZONE that I am in. 

Ghana Journey: CATHOLIC RELIEF SERVICES

Note:  I will post my Ghana blogs as Internet access allows. Photos will be posted after I return home.

Monday 3 June 2013

CRS Headquarters, Baltimore

I had no idea CRS was headquartered in its own building, with security and everything. Given its worldwide reach and mission, I guess I shouldn't be surprised. CRS does a lot of good work on this planet.

Originally in New York, CRS moved to Baltimore to be closer to Washington, DC and the proximity to legislative networking. Moving to the downtown area gave CRS the opportunity to work with the local community.

We had an all day orientation session facilitated by Ted Miles, our CRS leader for this journey. We also met CRS staffers Martha Gaynoe, Relationship Manager, and Alsy Acevedo, Communications Officer and Social Media Specialist. I am looking forward to getting to know these fine folks in the coming days.

This is the CRS Mission Statement:

Catholic Relief Services carries out the commitment of the Bishops of the United States to assist the poor and vulnerable overseas. We are motivated by the Gospel of Jesus Christ to cherish, preserve and uphold the sacredness and dignity of all human life, foster charity and justice, and embody Catholic and moral teaching as we act to:

- Promote human development by responding to major emergencies, fighting disease and poverty, and nurturing peaceful and just societies; and,

-Serve Catholics in the United States as they live their faith in solidarity with their brothers and sisters around the world.

As part of the universal mission of the Catholic Church, we work with local, national and international Catholic institutions and structures, as well as other organizations, to assist people on the basis of need, not creed, race, or nationality. 

     (CRS Chapel)