ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Wednesday 2 October 2013

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

We're a happy group, made up of obviously seasoned travelers who have done this tour thing before. To give you an idea of our demographics, outside of a friend's high school son and a few young adults, I am among the youngest in our entourage -- and I'm no spring chicken!

After a fabulous buffet breakfast (I had a Turkish bagel), we got into our buses for a very colorful drive through the streets of downtown Istanbul. It's a very modern city of 14 to 17 million, at least. There are some skyscrapers but mostly flats of 4 or 5 stories.

Istanbul is an ancient seaport city that had strategic importance during the days of the Ottoman Empire. This influence is still felt today. The Bosphorus Strait not only divides the city but also serves as the natural division between Europe and Asia. Yes, Istanbul and Turkey have a foot on both continents! The Bosphorus Straight connects the Black Sea with the Mediterranean, and that explains Turkey's central importance for peace in the region then and now.

Aran, our bus tour guide, is very knowledgable and tells many fascinating stories. For example, after centuries of monarchy, Turkey became a democracy in 1913. The country is 99% Muslim, with over 16,000 mosques. However, the Christian presence is significant and important.

We are now headed to the cathedral for Mass.

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MEMORIAL OF THE GUARDIAN ANGELS

The Cathedral of the Holy Spirit is a beautiful sacred space that is just teeming with inspiring paintings, statues and frescoes. Built in 1846, one could conceivably go to Mass here daily and discover something new each day of the year. 

Fr. Paul presided at our liturgy and spoke during his homily on the work of the Holy Spirit in this region, bringing diverse and sometimes antagonistic groups together. Deacon Matt spoke of the guidance and protection of the angels during our pilgrimage.

We sang songs of angels and God's presence: "Sacred Silence" at the Preparation of the Gifts; "Fly Like a Bird" for Communion. For the Sending Forth Song, I surprised the group by inviting them to sing what is arguably the most famous angel song of all: "Hark! The Herald Angels Sing!" Hey, there are only 83 more days until Christmas!

Next: The Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque

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HAGIA SOPHIA

The Hagia Sophia was an Orthodox cathedral that became a Catholic cathedral and eventually became a mosque. Today it's a museum, housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in Istanbul. Here's the basic timeline:

Eastern Orthodox cathedral: 537 to 1204

Roman Catholic cathedral: 1204-1261

Eastern Orthodox cathedral: 1261-1453

Imperial Mosque: 1453-1931

Museum: 1935-present

So the Hagia Sophia is a tangible history of the Turkish region. After each conquest, the new conqueror imposed his religion on the people, squashing all evidence of the religion of his vanquished predecessor. That explains why this building changed hands between the Orthodox, the Catholics and the Muslims. After the Sophia became a museum, a strong effort was made to rediscover and restore the sacred art of ALL resident faith traditions, resulting in a unique ecumenical blend that truly embodies this diverse region of the world.

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THE BLUE MOSQUE

Sultan Ahmed Mosque, AKA the "Blue Mosque," is an amazing house of prayer. The sense that we were entering into the holy presence of God was physically impressed upon us visitors by the dress code (no short pants for men; head covering for women), and by the custom of removing our shoes before entering the mosque. (We placed our shoes in plastic bags that were provided at the entrance and carried them in with us.)

The Blue Mosque was built from 1609 to 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I. Its popular alternative name is derived from the fact that blue mosaic tiles adorn the interior walls.

I'm not sure if there is a Muslim word for "cathedral" but the Blue Mosque would certainly qualify -- with all due respect from me as a Catholic writer. This house of prayer is cavernous and overwhelming, with  posted capacity of 10,000. The domed ceiling towers 141 feet above. And yet the soft lighting, stained-glass windows and red-patterned carpeting give the mosque a very warm and welcoming veneer.

As visiting tourists, we only had limited access, but over the wooden rail we could see young men and old praying in silence as they reverently made their way by bowing and kneeling to the front of the prayer area that was illuminated by the soft glow of the afternoon sun refracting through stained glass. Our guide said the praying men were facing toward Mecca. It was truly inspiring to witness such devotion, and I prayed with them from a distance in silence.

Sidebar: Pope Benedict came to the Blue Mosque on November 30, 2006 to pray with Mustafa Cagcni (Mufti of Istanbul) and Emrullah Hatipogku (Imam of the Blue Mosque). It was a landmark event in regional ecumenism.

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We later visited Topkapi Palace, residence of Ottoman Sultans, from 1465 to 1856. It is now a museum with holy relics of the Prophet Muhammed plus sultan treasures.