THE ETERNAL CITY

Wednesday 6 November / Thursday 7 November 2019
Vatican City, Rome

While still recovering from jet lag, my companions and I got together in the hotel lobby of the Residenza Paulo VI to discuss our plans for the evening. The sacred music conference didn't begin until Thursday, so we essentially had a free evening in Rome. There certainly would not be a lack of things to do and see here in the Eternal City. I’m traveling with a delegation from my parish: Virgil Funk, Chris and Teresa Gniewosz, and Carol Lowry. Such a great group, and Virgil is the perfect tour guide because of his knowledge of history and his many experiences at the Vatican. 

One thing that struck me immediately as we walked the narrow cobblestone streets is the warmth and welcome of the locals. Romans are famous for their hospitality and, as visitors, we are very reassured by the kindness of strangers who are more than happy to give directions and restaurant recommendations. Our dinner at Da Carla Pizzeria was amazing, from the friendly staff and the complimentary appetizers, to the stunning main dishes. I had the Linguini Vongole e Funghi Porcini. Five Star dinner, for sure. 

I wrote extensively on the various iconic sites of Rome in my blogs of 2013. My focus on this visit is on the conference but I certainly will look forward to seeing many of the great churches again. 

On Wednesday we visited two sacred sites that share a common Roman heritage — the Pantheon, a former temple, now a Catholic church, that was originally completed by Emperor Hadrian in 126 AD; and the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone, a 17th century Baroque church on the Piazza Navona where St. Agnes was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian. 

Thursday morning, before the start of the conference, we did a quick tour of the Castel Sant’Angelo, which started out as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family, and was later used as a fortress and castle by Popes Nicholas III, Clement VII, Leo X, and Paul III in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was here that the popes hid from public view during a period of great instability as the papacy transitioned rather violently from its status as a temporal power. 

This is why Rome is called the Eternal City. There is a palpable sense of history here that is unmatched in Western Civilization, extending from the glory days of the Roman Empire through the Catholic Church’s medieval heyday, and onward through the rise and fall of the Papal States to Vatican City’s current status as the world’s smallest country, with 1.2 billion “citizens,” i.e., the worldwide membership of the Catholic Church. 

When I walk the streets of Rome, I am overwhelmed by the stunning contrast between ancient history and modern hospitality. The locals know their heritage and take great pride in it. It’s the reason I will try and come back to visit the Eternal City as often as I can. 

Next Blog: The Conference Itself