ST. PETER’S BASILICA and the SISTINE CHAPEL

Tuesday 8 October 2013

ST. PETER'S BASILICA

We’re on a pilgrimage, so I try to pray at all the holy sites that we visit. That prayer has sometimes been deep and powerful — for example, at the tombs of St. John and St. Paul. But after our morning liturgy at St. Peter’s, when we returned to the basilica with our tour guide Paolo, it felt more like we were at a museum than at a house of worship. That’s not the basilica’s fault. St. Peter’s, covering about 15,500 square yards and reaching up 150 feet high, is overwhelming, historic, and very much a product of the Renaissance style from which it was birthed. Around 7 million people come to St. Peter’s annually, making it among the most visited sacred sites in the world. So, of course, the basilica will be crowded, busy and noisy on any given day.

All the churches and mosques we have visited are covered almost wall-to-wall with beautiful art or — in the case of the mosques where no images are allowed — exquisite architectural design. St. Peter’s magnifies that art-sharing a hundredfold. Its ornate columns, gold-leafed walls, paintings and statues were created by a Who’s Who of the Renaissance era: Raphael, Brunelleschi, Bernini, Michelangelo, and more. The obvious response from visiting pilgrims is jaw-dropping awe and camera snapping, plus a fair amount of pushing and shoving, especially at popular areas like the Pieta or the Tomb of Blessed Pope John XXIII. In large crowds I start praying the Rosary silently. I find that it calms me and centers me, and on a pilgrimage it keeps me focused on the reason I am here.

I often hear comments from people along the lines of, “Such opulence! The Church should sell these treasures and give the money to the poor.” I admit I sometimes had that viewpoint when I was younger but I have since come to a more thoughtful understanding of the art and architecture of the Vatican.

1. These statues, paintings and buildings were commissioned by the Church during the Renaissance from the finest artists of the day. They are true works of art that reflect the baroque “over-the-top” style of that period — perhaps not the artistic cup of tea for many people of the 21^st century but certainly worthy of preservation for future generations.

2. If the Church were to sell these art treasures, who would buy them? What would happen to them? Would the new owners (assuming someone could actually afford them) continue to share them with the public for the whole world to see? Would they be displayed in a respectful setting that would inspire visitors to prayer and faith?

3. Why is the Catholic Church always singled out with this question? The Anglican Westminster Abbey in London is filled with paintings and tapestries that attract millions of visitors annually. As we saw in Turkey, the Muslim faith also has relics and sacred treasures on public display at Topkapi Palace, not to mention the magnificence of the Blue Mosque. One never hears criticism of these sacred places. In fact, the Muslim community utilizes the Topkapi display of its sacred treasures as an opportunity to edify the faithful, and to educate people who might be curious to learn more about the teachings of the Prophet Mohammed. So the Catholic Church isn’t the only faith community to understand and appreciate the value of sacred art.

Here are a few more photos of the sacred art of St. Peter’s Basilica:

Click here for the official Vatican website on St. Peter's Basilica.

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THE SISTINE CHAPEL

We were in St. Peter’s for only 90 minutes. I could have spent a whole week! But now it was time to move on to the Vatican Museum, which climaxes at the incomparable Sistine Chapel.

Seemed like the museum entrance was at least two miles away from St. Peter’s Square. More walking, more waiting in long lines. Along the way I was very amused to see a restaurant with a clever name that is a play on “Habemus Papam,” the Latin words used to announce the election of a new Holy Father (“We have a pope!”).

The Vatican Museum is basically a “stage wait” that leads to the REAL event: the Sistine Chapel. That’s not to denigrate the beautiful art that precedes the museum’s climax — everything from ancient Roman statuary to medieval tapestries to Renaissance ceiling frescoes. . .

But anticipation for the Sistine Chapel was certainly high as we eagerly awaited our chance to set foot in that renowned sacred space. Briefly, it’s the chapel of the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope. It takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, who began the chapel’s restoration in 1477. Perhaps the most definitive renovation was Pope Julius II’s commissioning of Michelangelo to paint the ceiling frescoes in 1508. Later, Pope Paul III commissioned the artist to return and paint the frescoes of Last Judgment over the altar in 1535.

I was in awe as we entered the chapel, which was wall-to-wall with a hushed crowd of people. Photography was NOT allowed. In fact, one young man who snapped a photo was promptly removed by security. So the images I share below are lifted from official photos from the Vatican website.

I walked away with a deeper appreciation for the intricate artistry of Michelangelo, who spent fours years lying on his back on top of scaffolding. That he was able to create a masterpiece under such challenging circumstances staggered my imagination.

The Sistine Chapel is, of course, renowned as the location where the College of Cardinals holds the Conclave that elects a new pope. We saw this most recently with the election of Pope Francis last spring (March 2013). But if you missed seeing that on television, I highly recommend that you check out the 1968 movie The Shoes of the Fisherman starring Anthony Quinn as a the first Russian pope. It is perhaps the most vivid cinematic portrayal of the ritual and traditions of the Papal Conclave, and the Vatican gave permission to the producers to film right in the Sistine Chapel. Absolutely fascinating and educational!

Click here for a link to the Shoes of the Fisherman DVD on Amazon.

Click here for more detailed info on the Sistine Chapel from the website of the Vatican Museum. Includes virtual tour of the chapel.

NEXT BLOG: General Audience with Pope Francis.

MASS AT ST. PETER'S

Tuesday 8 October 2013

MASS AT ST. PETER’S      

Midway through our journey, we arrived at the place that many would consider as the high point of our pilgrimage: St. Peter’s Basilica!

Our cameras were snapping away as soon as the basilica dome became visible from our bus. We left the hotel early to beat the traffic, and there was definitely an excitement in our group as we crossed the quiet streets leading to St. Peter’s Square. I have many well-traveled friends who have told me that all Catholics need to make a pilgrimage to the Vatican but I never thought that I would ever actually be able to do so. And here we were, getting ready to celebrate Mass with Father Paul in the basilica itself!

I think we were all in awe as we set foot in St. Peter’s Square, whose images are so deeply ingrained in our Catholic memory from the many papal events of our lifetime: the white smoke from the Sistine Chapel; the blessing of newly elected popes from the balcony; the impressive funeral of Pope John Paul II; the General Audiences; and so much more. The façade of the basilica is certainly imposing: 376.3 feet wide and 149.4 feet high, with thirteen statues looking down on us – Christ, surrounded by the Apostles (except St. Peter, whose statue is left of the stairs) and St. John the Baptist. The inscription below the cornice commemorates the pope who oversaw the completion of the Renaissance-era construction that replaced the old 4^th-century basilica:

IN HONOREM PRINCIPIS APOST PAVLVS V BVRGHESIVS ROMANVS PONT MAX AN MDCXII PONT VII


(In honor of the Prince of Apostles, Paul Borghese, a Roman, Supreme Pontiff, in the year 1612, the seventh of his pontificate)

But it was time for us to stop our gawking and head into the basilica. We were already late for our scheduled Mass at the side altar. We rushed through the initial security screening easily enough but I hit a roadblock at the basilica’s front door.

I was told that guitar cases are routinely turned away at the doors of St. Peter's but, as my pilgrimage friends know, my guitar folds in half and my case looks more like a backpack. The front door guard looked me over and said in a thick Italian accent, "What is that?" 

I replied honestly, "It’s a guitar, for my group's Mass." By this time, most of our group had gone ahead of me to set up for the liturgy. Luckily, Mike Strassmaier and Art Nutter were still with me.

"Do you have permission slip to play guitar at your Mass?" asked the guard. 

"What permission slip?" I asked innocently. Then one of our group ran back to me.

"Come on, Ken! Fr. Paul is ready to start Mass!" 

The guard became concerned. He was actually very nice but he needed to make sure this was cleared with his supervisor. "Don't be late for Mass. But first go to sacristy and get permission from Head Usher."

So off to the sacristy we went. St. Peter's Sacristy is like Grand Central Station, with nuns and seminarians assisting visiting priests and bishops who want to celebrate various side altar liturgies. Oscar, our tour guide, had now joined our permission party and he explained our request in Italian to the Head Usher, who sized me up and said one emphatic word:

"No!"

Then Oscar explained that my guitar is not electric and I would strum softly. We were already late for Mass. Our guide pointed to his watch and pleaded with the Head Usher, who finally relented and granted permission. And that is how I ended up playing guitar for Mass at the Vatican! My fellow liturgists and composer peers are still in awe by the story of how I got away with this. It was a classic case of "Better to seek forgiveness later than to ask for permission now."

8:00 am is obviously Mass time at St. Peter’s. There were several pilgrimage liturgies taking place simultaneously throughout the basilica at the various side altars. We dashed out of the sacristy a little disoriented as we looked for our group. Then Mike heard Fr. Paul’s distinctive voice over the church sound system and we followed his voice to the Altar of the Chair of St. Peter.

My jaw dropped as I realized that our Mass was not at just any side altar. We were at THE side altar, the Cathedra Petri, behind the Pope’s main altar. Father Paul attended seminary here in Rome and this pilgrimage is a celebration of his 50^th anniversary as a priest. How utterly fitting that he would return to the Vatican to celebrate this personal landmark! How privileged we were to be with him!

Our priest’s homily was incredibly moving, and I hope I can do it justice in this blog. Father Paul recalled his special day as if it were yesterday. His father, a convert to Catholicism, prepared a wonderful surprise gift: he spent the better part of a year learning Latin so he could be an altar server at his son’s First Mass! It was with great joy that father and son walked down the aisle together as the newly ordained priest celebrated his first Eucharist with family and friends.

As St. Peter said to Jesus at the mountain of the Transfiguration: “Lord, it is good for us to be here!”

NEXT BLOG: More on St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel

CHURCHES OF ROME

Monday 7 October 2013

CHURCHES OF ROME

Last night, after our wonderful walk through St. Paul Outside the Walls, we settled into our hotel. After dinner we took in an enchanting “Rome by Night” tour of the City, led by our knowledgeable guide Paolo. Marvelous!

Today, we did a whirlwind tour of Rome that left many of us out of breath. So many churches! So little time!

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PAPAL BASILICA OF SAINT MARY MAJOR

(Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore)

As mentioned in my previous blog, this is one of four major basilicas in Rome, the other three being St. Paul Outside the Walls, St. John Lateran, and St. Peter’s. By way of definition, a basilica is a church that has been designated as a Catholic pilgrimage site. A papal or major basilica is so-named because it is often visited by the Pope for special occasions and has the distinction of having a Holy Door that is opened by the Holy Father only during the Holy Year or Year of Jubilee. Next Holy Year is 2025.

St. Mary Major was built by Pope Sixtus III (432-440) and is the largest Marian shrine in Rome. Among its many art treasures is the Reliquary of the Nativity – a relic of the Manger of Baby Jesus. I once again found myself kneeling in emotional prayer before a relic with tangible ties to our faith.

Click here for a brief historical summary of this basilica.

We would return to St. Mary Major for Mass on Wednesday.

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CHURCH OF THE GESU

Chiesa del Gesù is the Mother Church of the Jesuit religious order, also known as the Society of Jesus, founded by Saint Ignatius of Loyola to carry out a ministry of education and evangelization. Our current Holy Father, Pope Francis, is a Jesuit.

Church of the Gesu was consecrated in 1584, and its design set a pattern for Jesuit churches that lasted well into the 20^th century. Among those design features:

• ·      No narthex in which to linger;
• ·      immediate entry into the body of the church;
• ·      single nave without aisles so a visitor’s attention is focused immediately on the high altar;
• ·      in lieu of side aisles, a series of interconnecting side chapels with high arches.

In addition to the essential Catholic iconography of Jesus and Mary, there is an obvious emphasis on images, statuary and relics of Jesuit saints: Ignatius Loyola, Francis Xavier, Robert Bellarmine, and more.

Official website of the church: www.chiesadelgesu.org

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BASILICA OF SAINT CLEMENT

Basilica di San Clemente al Laterano

A minor basilica dedicated to Pope Clement I, the original church was built in the 4^th century and is accessible below the current church, which dates from 1123. The ancient underground church was originally a private home in which Mass was celebrated secretly to avoid Roman persecution.

Although the San Clemente’s outside façade is humble and unassuming, the interior is among the most richly adorned churches in Rome. When we entered the church there were many Dominican priests and brothers chatting with diocesan seminarians. Irish Dominicans have been caretakers of San Clemente since 1667, when England outlawed the Catholic Church and expelled the clergy. Pope Urban VIII gave them refuge at San Clemente, which has become a residence for the order’s seminarians in Rome. The Dominicans oversaw the excavation  and restoration of the lower level in the 1950s.

On a personal note, although I was deeply touched by the history of the crypt and its connection to Christian persecution, I was unprepared for the length and depth of the ancient tunnels. I am claustrophobic and soon found myself hyperventilating when it became clear that we were going to be underground, without windows, for a significant time. I held my fear in check so as not to cause panic or concern among my friends, but bolted straight out to the courtyard when we eventually found our way back to the gift shop exit. Whew!

Official website:

www.basilicasanclemente.com

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COLOSSEUM

We somehow squeezed in a quick tour of the legendary Roman Colosseum, a true marvel of engineering in the pre-technology age. Walking through the interior, I was struck by how closely today's football and baseball stadiums still follow this ancient design.

Despite their advances in government, culture, engineering and architecture, the Romans were a brutal society. According to tradition, bloody gladiator battles took place here and, during "halftime," Christians were fed to the lions. So this is a holy site of Christian martyrdom during the terrible persecution of Emperor Nero.

In retrospect, if Christians were so willing to die for their belief in Jesus Christ, then the Roman Empire was doomed. In just 300 years, Christians conquered Rome without an army as Emperor Constantine issued the Edict of Toleration.

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SCALA SANCTA (HOLY STAIRS)

By tradition, these are the steps that led up to the Praetorium of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem, on which Jesus stood as he awaited trial during his Passion. The stairs were brought to Rome by Saint Helen in the 4^th century and are housed in the old Lateran Palace opposite the Basilica of St. John Lateran. As a sign of devotion, pilgrims climb the 28 marble steps (now encased in wood) on their knees as they prayerfully approach the Holy of Holies, a private chapel of the early popes that contains a relic of a fragment of the table on which the Last Supper was served.

Website: www.scalasanta.org

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PAPAL ARCHBASILICA OF ST. JOHN LATERAN

Quick question: What is the Mother Church for Roman Catholics? If you said St. Peter’s Basilica you are not quite correct. The distinction goes to the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, the cathedral church of the Diocese of Rome. Since the Pope is the Bishop of Rome, this is his cathedral. It’s a little confusing but that does not lessen the importance of St. Peter’s. Before the rise of the modern papacy and the Pope’s global mission, his original ministry was as bishop for the people of Rome.

Consecrated in the year 324, the Lateran Basilica has survived fires, decline, and even a controversial “second papacy” in Avignon, France. When the papacy returned to Rome in 1378, St. John Lateran was in such deterioration from the damaging fires that it was deemed inadequate to serve the Pope. That partially explains the rise of St. Peter’s Basilica as the papal church, even though the Lateran Basilica remains the Pope’s official cathedral.

Reconstruction and restoration began in earnest, resulting in the unveiling of the magnificent statues of the Apostles in 1718.

We concluded our very busy Monday with Mass in one the side chapels. Our already large group increased in size considerably when word got out among other tourists that Fr. Paul was presiding at an English Mass. We were pleased to welcome new friends from New York and Germany. 

Virtual Tour of the Lateran Basilica: (a “must-see” website!) www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_giovanni/vr_tour/index-en.html

TOMORROW: St. Peter’s Basilica!

ROME: ST. PAUL’S OUTSIDE THE WALLS

ROME: ST. PAUL’S OUTSIDE THE WALLS

Sunday 6 October 2013

Turkey alone would have been sufficient enough for a meaningful pilgrimage experience. The incredible mosques, the art-filled basilicas, the museums and Grand Bazaar, and the incomparable Ephesus already gave us memories that we will cherish for a lifetime. But this superlative week in the former Ottoman Empire was only a prelude to the days ahead.

Today, Sunday the 6^th, we headed to Rome!

The Eternal City! Seat of the ancient Roman Empire! Center of Western Civilization for over two millennia! Capital of Italy! Site of the Vatican! Roma, Italia!

There is so much to see in Rome! For us Catholic pilgrims, of course, the main event is the Vatican and all the churches and basilicas that encircle the city-state. After a scenic 90-minute flight from Istanbul, we launched right into our Roman pilgrimage by heading straight to the Papal Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, one of four major basilicas in Rome. The other three are St. Mary Major, St. John Lateran, and St. Peter’s.

St. Paul Outside the Walls was founded by Roman Emperor Constantine over the burial site of Saint Paul. Over many centuries, the basilica has experienced much growth and expansion, surviving an 1853 fire that almost destroyed it. Click here for brief historical summary.

Our cameras started snapping away as soon as we stepped off the bus. We were beckoned immediately by the rooftop statuary and distinctive gold-leafed façade of the church. The Holy Door, opened every 25 years by the pope during a Holy Year, also caught our attention. But our jaws didn’t drop until we finally set foot inside the basilica.

I have seen photos of the Vatican churches almost all my life but those images could not prepare me for the reality of beholding this sacred art and architecture with my own eyes. The height and depth and sheer awesomeness of St. Paul’s and all the basilicas quite literally take my breath away. Every square foot, every wall, every door, every column, every window, every dome, every nook and cranny – EVERYTHING is elaborately decorated in minute detail. It would take weeks, no, years to closely examine each work of art in St. Paul’s alone, and we only had less than one hour to walk around!

Non-Catholics sometimes comment on how over-the-top the Vatican is, art-wise. This may be true but one has to remember that much of this sacred art stems from the Renaissance, when “over-the-top” was a routine mission statement. This art style was current in the 1400s and 1500s and reflects the values and expectations of what passed for art at the time. I suppose if Michelangelo were alive today he would be decorating churches in the minimalist style that characterizes such modern sacred spaces as St. Mary’s Cathedral in San Francisco.

The purpose of sacred art is to lift our hearts and minds to God. This is entirely what happened to me as I walked through St. Paul Outside the Walls. But as uplifting as the art was, I found myself even more taken away by my experience of deep prayer as I knelt at the tomb of Saint Paul.

The same prayerful numbness enveloped me as it did at the tomb of Saint John in Ephesus. I was overwhelmed by the experience of being in the presence of something so tangibly linked to an Apostle of Christ. We probably know more about Paul than any of the other apostles simply because of the sheer volume of his writing that has inspired believers for over two millennia. Saint Paul’s letters are remarkable for their raw honesty and deep spiritual wisdom. They reveal the soul of someone who truly knew Jesus Christ and was driven by that relationship to set the world on fire. I read some writing of Paul every single day. He is among my favorite of all the saints and remains a main source of inspiration for my songwriting. And here I was, kneeling at his tomb.

Jesus Christ lived, died, and rose from the dead. But after his Ascension, he left it to Paul of Tarsus to bring his message to the world. Through the communities he founded and through his passionate writing, I believe Saint Paul far exceeded his Lord’s expectations. He gifted the Church and the world with an abundance of iconic insights:

If Christ is for us, who can be against us . . .

I have come to rate all as loss in the light of my Lord Jesus Christ . . . 

We should glory in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ . . . 

Love is patient, love is kind, love is not jealous or rude . . . 

For when I am powerless, then I am strong . . . 

He is the image of the unseen God . . . 

We know that Christ, raised from the dead, dies no more; death no longer has power over him . . . 

Jesus Christ is Lord . . .

Saint Paul’s wisdom flooded my soul during my prayer at his tomb. But as I gazed upon the relic of the chain that tradition says bound him in a Roman prison, I could only think about 2 Timothy 2:8 . . .

Remember Jesus Christ, raised from the dead, a descendant of David. Such is my gospel, for which I am suffering, even to the point of chains, like a criminal. BUT THERE IS NO CHAINING THE WORD OF GOD!

Thank you, Great Apostle, for unchaining God’s Word to the world!

NICEA

Saturday 5 October 2013

NICEA

As with Chalcedon, there really isn't a church or landmark to commemorate the Council of Nicea, where the early Church bishops debated the question  of Christ's divinity and humanity in the year 325. The council's deliberations resulted in the Nicene Creed that Catholics pray every Sunday during Mass.

From Sister Mary's commentary that she distributed earlier in the week:

[The Nicene Creed] did not receive final formulation until the First Council of Constantinople in 381. Athanasius of Alexandria refuted Arias who was teaching that Christ was a lesser God, raised to divinity because of nobility of life (adoptionism). Athanasius said Christ has to be homoousios (of the same substance) as the Father because only one fully God could save. . . "Consubstantial with the Father" was recently restored to the English version of the Creed. 

Nicea today is known as Iznik, a Muslim city. Our tour organizers couldn't even find a Catholic church here where we could celebrate Mass. Nevertheless, we set out for Nicea (Iznik) to get a sense for the distance from Constantinople (Istanbul), and to feel the holy vibes of that landmark location for Christianity.

It is indeed a very long distance from Istanbul to Iznik: 124 miles by road. Our driver cut down the drive time by putting us on a ferry across the Sea of Marmara but it still came close to a 3-hour drive. The ferry was fun, and it gave us a chance to mingle with the locals.

But before we reached the ferry dock, we drove through the Asian side of Istanbul that featured amazing futuristic skyscrapers in bizarre shapes and colors that look like something out of Star Trek. Incredible!

Three hours later, we arrived at the town of Iznik. Really, there is nothing in this town even remotely related to the Council of Nicea, but we stopped to visit a humble house of worship known as Iznik Ayasofya (Orphan) Mosque, which started out as a Roman temple during the days of the empire. In the 4th century, a Christian church was built over the temple. Upon the conquest of Iznik by Orphan Ghazi in 1331, the church was converted into a mosque.

In 1920, the mosque was destroyed in a skirmish with the Greeks. Restoration work began in 2007, and Orphan Mosque was opened again for public worship in 2011.

Orphan Mosque is a small house of worship built of red brick. I could definitely see traces of Christian design in its layout and windows. The central carpeted prayer space, with no pews, keeps the mosque spacious.

Our group arrived in time for Noon Prayer. Fr. Paul met the Imam, the prayer leader of the mosque. They embraced each other in a deep understanding of their roles as men of God.

At 12:00 the Imam, on his knees, started singing into a microphone in the prayer area as he faced toward Mecca. His sonorous voice was broadcast via loudspeakers outside the mosque for all the town to hear. Within minutes, shopkeepers and businessmen filed into the mosque, removed their shoes, and joined their Imam. The chanting was mesmerizing and beautiful. I had never before experienced a Muslim prayer service. Nicea is no longer a Christian city, but we Christians had the rare privilege of praying with our Muslim brothers as their guests.

Here is a brief recording of the beautiful chant from Noon Prayer: