Ghana Journey: THE LORD'S DAY

Sunday 9 June 2013

Note:  I will post my Ghana blogs as Internet access allows. Photos will be posted after I return home.

Sacred Heart Cathedral, Bolgatanga

Full, conscious and active participation. That catch-phrase from the Second Vatican Council is the best way I can think of to describe Sunday Eucharist at Sacred Heart Cathedral in Bolgatanga. From the moment we set foot in that church, I could definitely feel the Spirit of Christ there in the midst of the people.

The cathedral is modern and huge, with a spacious sanctuary and seating for 1000 people. A Risen Christ cross is the centerpiece, which is flanked by a statue of Mary to the left and the Sacred Heart of Jesus to the right. Colorful red and white fabrics flow underneath the statues, creating a serene sense of movement. A large tabernacle in the shape of the Sacred Heart is to the left of the sanctuary, along with the organ, an electronic keyboard, and several congas. To the right of the sanctuary is the archbishop's Ex Cathedra seat underneath a large brown and red umbrella and in front of a banner of the archbishop's coat of arms. Below that is a large wooden xylophone, plus space for even more percussion instruments.

                                               

     (This is the archbishop's "ex cathedra" chair. Note the canopy.)

At our dinner last Friday, I asked Monsignor Roger about liturgical music. He said the music in Ghana is lively and rhythmic and definitely of the people, who sing and participate with enthusiasm. What about Gregorian chant? He said the Church's official music is sung at the seminary, but the people in the pews would find chant to be foreign to their experience. During this cathedral liturgy, at which Monsignor presided, I saw first hand a powerful expression of these views in the singing of the people, their drumming, their dancing, and their holy sense of prayer and worship.

This was the cathedral, so that meant the formal elements of the Roman liturgy: large Entrance Procession with many ministers and servers; not one but two robed choirs; singing all the parts of the Mass; incense and bells. But this was Ghana, so the music was lively and filled with tantalizing rhythms that were drummed out by several percussionists. Our group sat in the middle of the church, toward the back, so we could easily see how the drumming was making the people in the pews move and dance to the beat. 

The liturgy was bilingual, in both English and the local dialect. As mentioned in the blog from last night's concert, the collection consisted of money boxes placed in strategic locations throughout the church. Everyone got out of their pews and stood in line to place their donations in the boxes. The song at this time had such a good beat that the collection lines were really conga lines in which the congregation danced down the aisle while singing along. 

The music was inspiring, alternating between a contemporary choir and a more traditional SATB choir, with percussion punctuating both groups. Communion was well organized for the over-capacity congregation as servers with large white crosses marked the locations of the Eucharistic Ministers within the church and also outside, where a spillover crowd was seated with a sunroof and speakers to hear the liturgy.

                                        

      (The Eucharistic tabernacle of Sacred Heart Cathedral.)

Announcements took at least 15 minutes! The commentator delivered everything from the events of the week to the parish financial report and other details, concluding with the introduction of two couples who were celebrating their anniversary. Then, to my surprise, our group was called up to the sanctuary.

We've been introducing ourselves everyday for the past week. Saying our names is easy; the challenge is to share some brief comments about our experience in Ghana (Wonderful! Awesome!) without duplicating what the others are saying. I spoke of how inspired I was by the way this cathedral assembly so obviously loved God and each other, and how I want to take that love home with me. The people applauded warmly.

Of course, we sang for them, a cappella. First, we did Greg's "We Are His People" and the assembly joined in eagerly with the hand gestures. Seeing the whole cathedral sign and sing my friend's song so enthusiastically overwhelmed me to tears. Then ValLimar launched into a rousing rendition of "We Are Marching." The crowd erupted into clapping and dancing as the parish percussionists punctuated on their congas.

Between the lengthy announcements and our segment, we must have added at least thirty minutes to the liturgy. And the people didn't mind! In America, priests and people get antsy if the Mass goes on too long with too many add-ons. Not in Ghana! I am reminded of the words that Peter said on that holy mountain when he and his fellow disciples encountered the transfigured Jesus: "Lord, it is good for us to be here!"

                                              

              (I couldn't resist trying the xylophone in the percussion area!)

After Mass we went shopping at a craft marketplace across the street from the cathedral. I have no room in my tiny suitcase for souvenirs but my friends walked out with baskets and ear rings and  mini-congas. We lunched at a nice outdoor restaurant. Ben and Greg sweated buckets with their spicy banku  while Val and Alsy feasted on whole fish, fried Ghana-style. I decided to play it safe and ordered spaghetti with a mariana sauce that turned out was African-spicy. Thankfully, a large bottle of Star beer (brewed in Ghana) cooled me down.

From there we drove back to Tamale for the 6:00 Charismatic Mass at Holy Cross Parish, which was a smaller church than the cathedral. It was certainly a joy to hear their young choir lead us in spirited Praise songs. We shared our songs at Communion. After Mass, Fr. Carolus Gambogi, the pastor, feted us with dinner in the rectory courtyard as the sun slowly set. It was a good end to a joyful celebration of the Lord's day.

(Ben jams with the Charismatic Choir.)

  (Greg charms the children with his songs.)