Ghana Journey: THREE HOUR TOUR

Tuesday 11 June 2013

Note: We were without Internet for four days but I kept on writing blogs. Will catch up with posting as I am able. Photos after I get home.

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We caught an early flight this morning back to the capital city, Accra. I have now been here long enough to see the difference between northern and southern Ghana. Whereas Tamale is rural and rustic, Accra is definitely urban, a fact borne out by heavy bumper-to-bumper traffic on the main streets. The "hawkers" or walking vendors are a ubiquitous presence, bringing every product under the sun to your car window in the hope of making a sale to impulse buyers.

(Incredible sight! This is a Tro-Tro, the Ghanaian bus. Notice how people sit on TOP of the bus when there are no more seats inside.)

We stopped for breakfast at an airport restaurant called, appropriately, The Landing. A high-class place in which waiters wear white shirts and bow ties, the egg dishes were delicious and light. Ted advised us to do a simple breakfast since we are driving to a good lunch at Cape Coast. I normally don't eat a morning meal but broke that custom when I learned that we were in for a three-hour drive!

There is probably no better way to see a country than to drive its roads. Downtown Accra reminded me a little of downtown Los Angeles. The two cities share a dense cosmopolitan vibe, traffic congestion, and a compact layout that is filled to the brim with people interacting with intensity and purpose in the restaurants, shops and offices. The only thing missing in Accra are the skyscrapers that tower over LA, although that is slowly changing, as witnessed by all the high-rise construction.

It took around 45 minutes to finally get out of the city and into the open road, where we picked up speed after the toll booth. The flora and foliage are definitely African, with palm trees giving a characteristic look to the landscape. Occasionally, we passed small villages lined with roadside vendors and food booths, just like in Tamale. 

Three hours of groggy napping later, we were heartened by the sight of the Atlantic Ocean to our left. Signs began to point to our destination: Coconut Grove Beach Resort. Alas, the main bridge to the beach was down and our drivers had to spontaneously figure out an alternate route in unfamiliar territory -- without a map! So they relied on the tried and true pre-Google method: stop at gas stations and ask strangers for directions. 

Half an hour and several inquiries later, we finally found our way. There, at the end of a long and bumpy dirt road (of course), was Coconut Grove. And what a beautiful site it was! 18-hole golf course! Fishing pond and horseback riding! And a stunning outdoor restaurant right on the beach! 

But before we settled into our tables, a wonderful surprise: We met Thomas' wife, Felicia, who happened to be taking classes at a professional college down the street from the resort. We were overjoyed to meet her and complimented her for her lovely children and beautiful house where we dined the previous evening.

So we ordered drinks and food and chatted with Thomas and Felicia and her associates who are taking classes with her. All too soon, however, the rolling ocean beckoned to my comrades, who ran en masse to wade in the foam, leaving ValLimar and me to keep Felicia and her friends company. I asked why the beach was empty of swimmers and surfers on such a lovely day. They explained that Tuesday is the traditional day of rest for the local gods. People stay out of the water on this day to allow the ocean to renew itself. Even the fishermen stop fishing. Sounds good to me! I'm all for respecting Creation and honoring indigenous customs. 

Coconut Grove was a pleasant break but it was time to hit the road again. Next stop: Holy Cross Centre on Cape Coast. The Redemptorist Fathers run this retreat center and the Jesuits have a formation house right next door. The Jesuits welcomed us warmly and invited us to join them for dinner. After the meal, we shared our stories and songs with them. Ben sang his recent hit "Make Your Home In Me." Sarah sang her lovely "In the Silence." Greg sang "Despite" one of my favorites of his. Lastly, I led the group in singing my "Alleluia! Give the Glory" (co-written with Bob Hurd). Some in our own party had been singing that in their parishes for years and did not realize I composed it. I told the story of how the song came to me in a dream. 

After Night Prayers we headed to the dorm but not before we each fumigated our rooms with Raid to banish the mosquitos and other bugs that have claimed the rooms since the last time the retreat center had guests. It was a "safe" insecticide but we had to wait ten minutes before re-entering our room. Unfortunately, I breathed in a whiff of it and started coughing and hacking, which caused much concern among the women in our group. But I was okay.

I tried to go to sleep but it was too hot, so I went outside into the courtyard to look at the stars. I was amazed at the position of the constellations. I have never seen the Big Dipper so low in the sky, nor Scorpio so high. The explanation is that Ghana is near the equator. I was in awe!

Then, in the distance, a four-legged animal stealthily approached me. I was alone and couldn't make it out in the darkness, so I walked backwards in slow steps to the dorm. It was probably a dog but I didn't want to take a chance on being wrong.

Safely back in my room, I slipped underneath my mosquito net and fell fast asleep.